What Does Seasonal Mean at Surrell? A Conversation with Chef Aaron Tekulve

Chef Aaron Tekulve’s approach to cooking depends on locality and micro-seasonality - but what does that actually mean? “Farm-to-table”, “locavore” and “seasonal dining” have all become buzzwords, ubiquitous in most restaurant scenes. Public consciousness has shifted to the relationship between dining and sustainability, emphasizing the knowledge, labor, and energy that are necessary for food production - aspects of dining that are constant focal points at Surrell.

Still, there aren’t strict definitions for what constitutes a local menu, seasonal dining, or farm-to-table experience. There’s such variation that Chef Aaron avoids defining Surrell as a farm-to-table restaurant because, realistically, all food is farm-to-table. What’s more important is the integrity and intention of the farm.

The distinction between “seasonal dining” and Chef Aaron’s ethos of local, micro-seasonal dining lies in recognizing the complexity, nuance, and challenges of defining and practicing this style of cooking over months and years. He’s so committed that seasonal eating has even defined aspects of Surrell’s business model, contributing to the intimate nature of the restaurant. “When we’re trying to cook on a daily and weekly basis, serving a smaller group of people allows us to create dishes that are in season for short amounts of time and serve produce that’s only available in small quantities,” says Chef Aaron. This is where micro-seasonality comes into play.

Micro-seasonality and local sourcing are inextricably linked. By sourcing local ingredients, Chef Aaron is able to feature produce that’s experiencing peak seasonality–the moment when flavors are the very best version of themselves. “Seasonality starts with understanding the actual time constraints that allow an ingredient to grow at its very best in a specific place. There’s a lot of nuance to seasonality, and you have to make a lot of decisions. You can get tomatoes year round, but they aren’t the best tomato when they’ve ripened on a truck. Asparagus is micro-seasonal…when it starts to get warm, asparagus gets tough. I’d say at that point, it’s out of season and we have to move on.”

Part of the romance and allure of this approach is this constant change. Certain dishes at Surrell might run for as little as a week, and the whole 9-10 course tasting menu fully evolves over the course of a month. “We’re so comfortable changing the menu…We know we’re going to be creating the very best version of the dish. When we capture these moments, our diner’s get to experience the very best flavor.”

But such a strict approach also has its challenges. Sometimes, you have to give up a dish before it’s even served. When carrots went out of season unexpectedly, our kitchen had to decide between running the new, planned carrot dish, or improvising something new. Chef Aaron chose to move on, and the carrot dish never made it to the menu.

In Seattle, seasonality also means accepting all four seasons for their abundance and limitations. “When you’re eating locally in the PNW, you long for ingredients. Unlike some other parts of the country, you can’t get anything at any time. But that’s part of the romance and reward - as a cook, you get excited to work with things you haven’t seen in a while.”

This all depends on a few incredible farmers in the Seattle area who entrust us with the preparation and care of their produce. Evergreen United Food Hub, a collective of local farms, has been particularly important to the success of Surrell’s mission. By aggregating produce from six local, organic farms, Evergreen is able to supply restaurants in the Seattle area with the best the PNW has to offer. Each week, Chef Aaron designs the menu around what these farms are harvesting.

“It’s important to have good relationships with farmers who are sharing details and quality of certain ingredients. I feel so fortunate that we do have those relationships, because it helps make dishes that much more delicious.” Since seasonality is not always predictable, this symbiosis with local farms means that each Surrell menu is unique - a true and exact expression of the Northwest’s bounty.

We invite you to experience the moment during our 9-10 course tasting menu. Reservations are currently available at exploretock.com/surrell.